It’s been a little more than two weeks now that I landed on the Patagonian ground and we can say that the beginnings have been pretty adventurous !
After a first delay with my flight to Madrid, a flight misconnection, a night spent at the hotel, an other misconnection and a night spent on the floor of Buenos Aires Airport I finally arrived in El Chalten. A short relief because two nights later, I woke up with half of my face totally swollen. We found out in the morning that I had badly reacted to some bed bugs bites. I found something worse for me than sandflies... So with the fatigue of the travel plus the weakness given to my body by the allergy, it’s been hard to feel a 100% myself these last weeks. I start feeling better although we still try to get rid of this f*****g bugs and I'm still sick but I'm getting up every morning pushing myself forward trying as much as I can to forget about the 56 itchy spots on my body. Welcome to my traveller’s life !
Except that, everything is good ! We just ended the second hiking module with a 4-day-hike in crazy desert and glacier landscapes. Next week, we'll start our second climbing module and I really can't wait for it !
But you'll have to wait cause for now, I'll give you an overview of the 2 first weeks only of the travel. Prepare yourself, it's pretty stunning here and you're probably gonna hate me for the photos following. On the list for today : some pictures of El Chalten, some others from our daily classroom views, some portraits of my new playground mates, some amazing lakes and summits, and some other pictures that would maybe make you cry.
I promise I think a lot of you from the other side of the atlantic (or Pacific, it depends where you are ;))
Let's go ?
THE TRAINING
We were expected on the 31st of January in EL Chalten to start the program. But I think we were all too impatient to be reunited and to meet the other 11 humans who would be our “Outdoor Family” for the whole program so most of us had already met on the way, on similar flights or bus connections. We are 11 : 6 girls, 4 boys, (4 from Australia, 1 from India, 3 from England, 1 from Denmark, 1 from Ireland, 1 from France). Plus Logan, our Pure Exploration Facilitator coming from New Zealand.
The first morning, Logan, our Pure Exploration facilitator, took the whole group on our first breathtaking hike, offering us some icebreakers and bonding time on top of the mountain. Although we can see the National Park peaks from town, once up there I was speechless. I think this is when I realized where I was really going to spend my next weeks and how lucky I am to be here… I have never had such a beautiful classroom view…
Once back in town, we spent the next few days mainly focusing on making ourselves at home in the hostel, the city and with each other. All the teambuilding games Logan has given us have really helped in building the group’s communication and coordination. But more importantly, I think the opportunities he has given us to start reflecting on ourselves has been good bonding time for us. Because we all have a story to tell and if we want to spend 3 amazing months without fighting, we need to be true to the others AND to ourselves.
EL CHALTEN
El Chalten is a small town that mainly lives thanks to tourism. In Summer, the population is about 3000 inhabitants but in winter, it drops down to a 1000. If I believe Manuel, one of our local guide, it’s because of some geopolitical issues between Argentina and Chile who were “fighting” to get some lands, that El Chalten was born in the 1980’s. A way for the Argentinian to claim their territory on this side of the andes.
We are situated 3 hours away from the main city, El Calafate, and are living a little bit disconnected. Shops are refilled every two/three weeks, the ATM is often empty, we meet more tourists than locals, the wifi only works when the city is half empty and we have no phone reception at all. A life in a perfect bubble for hikers, climbers and travelers. Streets are full of small little restaurants, bars, terraces, local shops and outdoor shops. A paradise for who likes to eat, to go out and to go in the outdoors !
The only inconvenient ? Supermarkets and food. The weather is pretty rough which makes almost impossible any kind of agriculture. Almost everything is imported, veggies are tasteless and probably weak in vitamins. Everything comes under plastics that they don’t really recycle. Diversity is not a word and when our cook team (we all take turns) of the day has lacks of inspiration, we often eat the same things. And I need to say that cooking for 12 everyday is a real challenge. Group decisions often make us eat lots of meat, (hard to find any kind of other proteins anyway) and the quantity of rubbish we create a meal often drives me crazy. Still a lot to learn… !
LA PREMIERE SEMAINE
Our first module was hiking but we were so impatient to climb some rocks that most of us went bouldering already. So what does it look like when you first start the Patagonia Pure Exploration program ?
On the first weekend we arrived a small bouldering festival was happening in the city. A good opportunity for all of us to get initiated from the start. The boulders are just 10 minutes away from the hostel, close by to an indoor bouldering gym so every time we are off training we often run to it.
On Monday, we started our first hiking week. Our hostel being situated in El Chalten, that means we live just next door to the famous National Park de Los Glaciares. No better place to get started. After a short preparation on Sunday, we went for our first full day hike with Esteban, our local guide. A grey and rainy day to the Lago de Torre with a timid view on the glacier but a good introduction to the program.
The second day, we went to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, a magnificent point of view of our daily neighbor : Fitz Roy. A good opportunity to learn some more skills about guiding and to hear some history about the area.
Wednesday morning was our classroom day. We’ve been preparing in two groups, our first two-day hike. A good way to get our map skills ok to calculate the times and distances for two days, to list the gear to take, to think about the food, and mentally prepare for our first overnight hike…
Wednesday afternoon was time for a surprise! Horse Riding in the Patagonian desert… I’ve never been riding horses in such a beautiful environment before and this was just magical. Being on this dry land, observing Fitz Roy from far, being surrounded by mountains, lakes and river… Beautiful… Sharing this kind of moment on a first week program was definitely a bonding experience for the whole group. Good laughter and good memories while exploring the wild plains…
On Thursday and Friday, we went on our first camping trip. Perfect opportunity to try out the gear, our shoes and our backpacks. Good test to also find out what’s the best weight we can individually carry and to see what we remember from what we’ve been learning so far! Once at the campsite, we dropped our gear and went for the summit hike, to discover the incredible Laguna de los Tres. A steep (and too frequented) way up but a breathtaking view at the top… There are no words to describe how small I seemed to be up there, how happy I was, and how alive I felt… Our 30 minutes break planned became an hour as we were enjoying it too much to end it…
Saturday was our first self-leading day. A little bit of homework given by Logan : time to start preparing the climbing week and learn some knots. Good timing also to sit and write down all the things we’ve learned so far : how to orientate a map, how to find North without a compass, how to use a compass, how to pack our backpack as a guide for a day hike, how to pack light for a 2 day hike, how to read a weather map, how to guide a group, what kind of food we should take and what information is good to give to a group before, during and after a hike.
Sunday, fun day. It was our first day off but most of us went out for a hike or a bouldering session before hanging out for a drink or an (incredible) Dulce de Leche ice cream in town. We’ve been having a surprisingly sunny week so we tried to make the most of it. With this weather, everything feels like summer here. Apparently, we need to stop getting used to it as we’ve been very lucky; the rain, the cold and the clouds should come back at some point. But it doesn’t matter, El Chalten definitely feels like home!
WEEK 2 : CLIMBING
Second week Climbing week !
Because we all had a total different experience of climbing, we spent the first days getting all over basics again to make sure we would all have the same safety baggage by the end of the week.
Some of us were really nervous to finally try their first rock climbing session but I was just sooooooo excited and impatient. It’s crazy how much we all have been progressing during the week, starting with some easy routes and finishing the week abseiling down the cliffs.
I have finally had the opportunity to spend my first birthday hanging from the rocks and I can say I was the happiest Birthday Girl ever. I even decided this would be my new tradition ! Let’s see what I can find for next year in Canada ! The 12th evening, we went out for some drinks all together. We had such a great time… I was really wondering how would be my birthday after only 12 days with this new family but I had such an amazing day.
El Chalten is like paradise for me. The town is surrounded by so many climbing walls, only a few minutes walk from the hostel. In 5 days, we already explored 4 of them. If mountains in Voss were choking me, here, they are attracting me !! Finally, walls are a problem for me only if I can’t climb them !
We just ended the climbing week and I need to say I’m pretty sad knowing I’ll have to wait 9 more days before going back onto it. We start our second Hiking module this week and this feels boring haha. It’s funny how I often forget how much I love being up there, by my self, a few meters above the ground. No other solution than facing problems by my self, in the now, with calm and concentration to maybe find the best solution or moves to get out of there.
Climbing teaches me everyday what is strength about, resistance, patience and challenge. I may not be the most confident person in my daily life but once on these walls, I’m just going fo it. I try, fail and do it again. I am learning so much about myself up there…
It is also such a great way to discover who your climbing buddies really are. We all have this little mask we like to wear daily to hide our wounds, weaknesses, sensitivity… But once up there, nothing’s left. Only you. For example we have in the group some people who seems to be really confident in their daily life, talking a lot, joking around, … But once up there, it’s often the opposite ! Silence, panick, fears… They are totally in need of support and encouragement to achieve the routes. It’s a little bit like if your true you is just waiting for you, up there.
And spending all these days with people who are sharing the same passion for rocks than me is just the best gift ever... If I want to go climbing, I don't have to go to far to find a climbing buddy !
AND HOW ARE YOU ?
I’m not gonna lie, the first days have been really hard. Spending 20 days with your body completely itchy and 7 days with half of your face swollen doesn’t make you feel that great. We've been emptying our room, moving out and moving in 5 times, which takes time and never makes you feel home. And I've been the only bitten for the first 15 days which has isolated me a bit. Difficult to take the decision of moving all the girls out of the room when you're the only one having this problem. Soooo mentally, I was pretty down.
And we started with hiking, which is my main weakness in the program because of my short breath. Hiking with Ben, Cachou or other friends until here has been fine, because they were my friends and accepting me as I was. But when you start a total new program with strangers, it's hard to be the one that slows down everyone... When I saw how fit is everyone and how fast they were going I had a really hard time. I can hike for hours and days, but I have to be at my own pace or I run out of air. And when you see the 11 other persons of your group waiting for you, and you are 400 meters behing trying the hardest than you can without succeeding it, the physical fight becomes a real mental fight. “I don’t want to be this annoying girl that makes everyone slow down.” Well, this is who I am, and I didn’t chose so I guess, I have to deal with it, as much as I can and unfortunately, them too… It is a good battle though, learning a lot about myself in a group, about my mental too.
Since that, I’m way better. Thankfully the climbing sessions made me feel like a warrior haha. I am in my element up there and I'm probably at the top of the girl's group. Which was enough to make me feel better about myself and my capacities. Our girl's group is also really strong. We share such a good team spirit, the girls helped me out so much in the last 4-day Hike, taking all of my weight to make me follow the group and be part of it as a full member. (yeah cause I also hurt my achilles tendon since I arrived which means my foot is double sized of what it should be...) But however, I am so grateful for these girls to act as pure friends and just as a team.
However, one of the biggest challenges we will probably face also in the next 3 months is going to be living, eating, sleeping and spending most of our time together. It’s really hard for me at the moment to find some free time only for myself. I haven’t found yet my safety place where I could run too when I need to be alone. Our days are pretty full on and once we finished, we have to cook for 12 or to prepare something for the day after, or we are too tired so we just hang out at the hostel. Having your own routine is SO important when traveling, but it’s even more important in a community life. I still have a lot to learn and hopefully these next days are gonna be helpful ! It's only the beginning anyway :)
And I really love our little family. We are all so different and this makes the experience so much more powerful. It's only good times and when some of us are down, we always cheer our group up and support each other. This is just beautiful...
We will definitely have to peel more layers off to find out who we really are, who we really want to be and where we really want to go after this program but these first few days have already been a good opportunity to start sharing pieces of ourselves.
This is a real adventure and despite the lack of time and wifi to write you guys, I can’t wait to tell you more about everything !!!
I'll write to you soon !!!
Love,
Co.
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