It is with a little bit of nostalgia that I am writing you today because tomorrow, a month full of adventures and learning will finally end. I will fly back to France for a few days before starting a completely different trip, in the sun.
After this first experience in Voss which had left me perplexed, I really wanted to go elsewhere to discover another part of Norway and get a more realistic opinion of this country. What is certain is that I was right to listen to this little inner voice that had attracted me here for a long time since these four weeks of life in the northern norway radically changed my opinion on Norway and (on my life) and that leaves me speechless !
I have not yet left Viking land but I already have accumulated hundreds of photos.... So I decided to give you a first portrait of my life on the islands, before giving you in a few days an article reviewing this whole norwegian experience. A good opportunity to look back over the last ten months spent in Europe and all the questions and answers that this trip has brought me or not. (I can't wait!!!!!!)
In the meantime, this month's program includes... : the return of "Coco Brico" with this workaway experience in Lofoten, the sea, the mountains, the beach, the autumn colours, the snow-covered peaks, the northern lights and the first snowflakes. I prefer warning you, it is hard to look at the images... :) Let's go !
FURU HOSTEL
The hostel where I was staying is located in the heart of Lofoten. About 45 minutes from Henningsvær, (THE city to go out), 25 minutes from Leknes, (perfect for shopping) and only a few minutes from many hikes or mountains to climb. Without forgetting the proximity to THE beach to surf... Yup ! The ideal place to set up a project like FURU....
I just spent four weeks there as a workawayer (= like wwoofing it is a voluntary system > accommodation and food offered in exchange of 5 hours of work per day) and I must say that I am more than happy to have landed here.
When I arrived, there were about ten volunteers already, who were helping the two founders on a daily basis. Arne and Guri are two friends who bought this old elderly home in February and have been working for more than 8 months on the renovation and transformation into a hostel. Since that, they got a countless number of "workawayers" who have helped and continue to help in the accomplishment of this project and I must admit that being here is very inspiring! Works, decoration, artistic projects... The result is quite incredible... More than a hostel, it is a real family that they have created even before opening the doors to the public. For sure : we already feel home at Furu...
My missions ? To improve the signage, to take care of small artistic creations, to design two installations on the walls of the hostel's café and to think about some decorative touches. I am very grateful to Arne, because after a quick summary of my skills, he was able to offer me tasks that were all adapted to my personality. This is not the case in all volunteer experiences and feeling so considered as soon as you arrive, it is priceless. (And then if your volunteers thrive in their missions, there is a good chance that they will spend more time on it than they should and this is just benefits !)
For my part, I'm not going to lie, I had a lot of trouble getting the tools back when I arrived here, because it's with my Dad that I've always made furniture and various objects. If I had succeeded in building Toto (our van in NZ) it was also thanks to my many calls from the other side of the world to ask him for advice... And then, after him, there was Ben.... With whom I spent a lot of time building too. So, although I was delighted with the missions I had in the hostel, I spent the first 4 days avoiding going through the workshop door... Until, after an hour of therapy (saving me again 0:)) , I realized it might be time to start over again... Especially since that's also why I came here too.
So after a few days of going in circles, I went down to the workshop, started, took the tools, screwed up, started again but finally managed to do something. As a real frenchie, I was thinking : "Do it right or don't do it". When in fact, "do it as well as you can" works much better. Perfectionism when you control me...!
Watercolour, painting, drawings, decoration, design and shelves building from old wooden boards (yes yes, I did the installation on the wall 0:))... I slowly regained my self-confidence and it had been a long time since I had felt proud to build something ! Since Toto, actually.
As a result, Canada and my nomadic van lifestyle desires came back to life in my head... and since then, I feel like nothing can stop me !
I feel so lucky to have been part of this place and project, to have put some of my drawings on the walls, to have discovered the history behind the hostel and the owners and to have met all these wonderful and inspiring people... Travellers of all ages, people in search of meaning, nomads who have now settled down, temporarily or permanently... Artists, photographers, videographers, professors, students, entrepreneurs, adventurers, chefs, musicians...
Furu is like a family in which you find, without searching, answers to your questions through those of others...
After this chaotic year and this rather complicated summer, I took some time during the first days to find my bearings within the group (second thanks to my therapist who collected my broken pots at the beginning of the month: D). Since then, these four weeks have gone so fast and I am very sad to have to say goodbye again. Unfortunately, I will miss the opening planned for February since I will be at the bottom of Patagonia (what is Patagonia?! yes yes, I come back to this a little further) but I am convinced I will cross the road of Furu again somehow in my life !
And then I met strangers who are my friends today, and who have played a significant role in my inner rebirth these recent weeks and I will never forget about it... !
Just one word to add : Thank you Furu Family.
MY FIRST STEPS IN LOFOTEN
The evening I arrived on the island, I found myself having to hitchhike from the airport to the hostel because I couldn't match the second and last bus of the day with my landing in Evenes. I had anticipated the question and asked about nearby hotels in case I got stuck there. (Especially since everyone was worried about me when I explained the situation in France before I left...) But, me and my adventurous spirit, believe firmly in the law of attraction and the universe... "If you believe in it and you are in the right state of mind, you attract to yourself the things you need." And I was right ! After 10 minutes of waiting and only 5 cars leaving the airport, I had the chance to meet Daniel, a 50-year-old Swiss American dad. The funniest thing in history? His first reaction to my sign indicating LEKNES as a destination: "But you know that Leknes is 3 hours drive from here?! It will be complicated for you to find a car to this city at this time (18h45)?! Are you sure there is no bus? "pronounced with big eyes and a little bit of desolation for me.
After explaining the twisted situation I was in, he offered to take me to his destination: Svolvaer, 2 hours from the airport and only 50 minutes from the hostel. From there, I was going to be able to catch another bus that would take me directly to Furu. It was perfect! So for two hours, I told a total stranger about my life and he did the same. He was so happy not to drive alone and to talk about his children and his travels. For my part, I was simply delighted to share my first Lofoten experience with someone and offer my company in exchange for a free ride.
We often think that hitchhiking is dangerous for the hitchhiker but we often forget that the one who decides to stop also puts his trust in your hands. In this mode of transport there is a form of connection or re-connection to humans that is quite incredible. The meeting, the exchange, the trust and the generosity of people who dare to stop... And then the learning also for the one who put his thumb out there, in front of each car that will decide not to stop. It is hard at first this feeling of "rejection". Then with time we learn to put distance from ourselves.... On the roadside as in life, each driver / person has a story, which justifies his reactions, his actions, his choice to stop or not. Hitchhiking constantly teaches me that the reaction and decision of others has absolutely nothing to do with me or my person. His decisions are his and are the consequences of countless contexts that do not depend on me: a culture, an education, his mood of the day, a journey, a destination, the type of car he has, the number of seats available, etc. This driver who hesitates to stop can think what he wants about this girl and her backpack on the side of the road... I know who I am, what I am worth and that's all that matters.
NORTHERN LIGHTS
When I was considering the Lofoten I wondered if I would have the chance to see aurora borealis in October... After 1 hour by car with Daniel, it was with amazed eyes that I was looking out the window for the first time. I was all moved and excited as he repeated to me, "oh you know, you might see a lot of it! "In the end, in four weeks, I spent three evenings watching the sky dancing for me. These green ghosts always leave me speechless. There is something magical, almost spiritual, that invades me. I felt like an insignificant little drop of water in this ocean of light and I could have stayed there for hours contemplating the immensity of the universe....
MONSIEUR MOOSE !
Three days after my arrival, I had the incredible chance to meet mooses in the small forest just behind the hostel. Once again, everyone kept telling me how lucky I was because seeing one, this quick, is quite unlikely. Usually, they are crossing the roads in the middle of the night. But in Furu, they could almost have been turned into pets! They stayed there for four days, living and nibbling on the leaves of the forest. We could observe them from the window. We approached them once or twice, while keeping our distance (and sometimes running very quickly too) because we were never very sure of their "sociability". (Yes we are adventurers but not stupid either;))
For the anecdote, one of the hostel's volunteers, Karoline, found herself face-to-face with one of them as she was painting a piece of furniture on the edge of the forest. Generally, if you meet one of these giants, you run away. But no, since she was there, stuck between her furniture and the animal and that he had come out of curiosity to her, she started to caress him... yes yes, yes, caress him... At the same time, she is so naive and innocent that any wild animal would approach her !...
STORMY WAVES
Islands in winter are often subject to wind and rain storms, making the landscape more impressive. A few days ago, we were suffering the effects of a small tornado that passed over our heads. Perfect opportunity to go to the beach to watch the sea unleash, to listen to the sound of the waves crackling, to feel the fresh sea air brought back by the swell. And a true pleasure for me to rediscover the islands in more dramatic colours.
SUNSET AND SUNRISE
I don't know if it's the effect of living on an island like in New Zealand, or if it's just because I feel connected to this place but Lofoten has allowed me to find part of the "Kiwi-Coralie...
I found back my pleasure to get up at dawn to enjoy the colours of the sun alone, I regained my enthusiasm at the idea of being just in time to observe the shades of pink and purple reflected in the clouds at sunset.... I have spent a lot of time thinking about these last few months and I have realized how much I need the energy of the mountains but also the energy of the ocean. The summits have this little something magical that imposes itself in me and often forces me to face my weaknesses and difficulties, to climb them and consequently, to face my inner demons. The sea, on the other hand, calms my mind. It allows me to send my thoughts out to the sea and watch them float to the rhythm of the waves. And then to move forward.
It is this mix of energy between mountain and ocean that makes me feel free and alive. This balance of landscapes, which creates my inner balance.... Here, even the incessant rains didn't get the better of me. It was more the opposite, each clear sky turned into a good excuse to go on an adventure and explore the islands!
HIKES
Lofoten are known for their Outdoor activities. The problem ? the seasons change very quickly and in one month we went from autumn to winter with temperatures approaching 0 degrees. So to climb, I'll have to come back. But hiking was ok ! With a rhythm of at least two per week, I have climbed more peaks in one month here than in 6 months in Voss... Yippee.
As I didn't have a car, I tended to join on any of the proposed hikes of the group. A good way for me to avoid having to choose (because I still hate making choices: D). And it was a perfect activity to get to know the people around me ! Patrick, Dimitri, Jolanda, Mike, Mike, and Terhi have been my adventure partners these past few weeks and I can never thank them enough for all these good moments shared at the top of the summits... Here is a small compilation of images and texts if you ever come to visit this little corner of paradise!
- HOVEN -
450 m up
First hike : Hoven, located 20 minutes by car from the hostel. Hoven is a small mountain, isolated in the middle of a plateau. Kind of like Mount Maunganui, where I lived in New Zealand. A beautiful symbol for my first outing on Lofoten ! It takes about 40 minutes, at a good pace to climb it (not counting my stops because of my sparrow breath). An easy hike despite the last steep climb and the view is, as everywhere in Lofoten, incredible and what's more, at 360 degrees! Thank you, girls!
(Yes, I look like a garden gnome in this picture, I'll give you that. That's why I share it with you, by the way)
- GLOMTINDEN -
370 mètres dénivelé
The second hike I did seemed more demanding by far, but turned out to be easier. We were gone for 2 hours but the summit awakened our adventurous minds and we ended up exploring the surrounding peaks off-trail. An expedition on the verge of climbing, but what a feel of freedom ! To tell you the truth, to get back to the car, we had to improvise through the forest, trying as best as we could to make our way through the steep, sharp, brittle trees and completely soft and unstable ground. Unforgettable.
- RYTEN -
550 m de dénivelé
Third hike, Ryten. This one is quite well known to tourists, but the advantage of coming to Lofoten in October is that there are not many people left! The landscapes evolve all the way to the summit, making the hike more enjoyable. Several destinations are possible including the beach "Kvalvika Beach" but for our part, we wanted to reach the summit. 2h30 return in a dream landscape !
- STEIRAPOLLEN -
Lake walk
Fourth : a walk around the lake at the bottom of the hostel. A two-hour loop on flat terrain but breathtaking colours. An other proof that best adventures can also be waiting right at your door...
- HAUKLAND BEACH -
Beach walk
An improvised walk in the late afternoon with a urge need to get some fresh air. As a result, we did not reach the top of Mannen offering a view of Haukland Beach but simply enjoyed a short walk on the beach. Magic.
- SVARTTINDEN -
713 m d'altitude
None of us had any expectations about this hike and it was a very nice surprise.
A progression of landscapes that naturally took us to the ridge: 15 minutes through the forest, 20 minutes in autumn colours and an hour of climbing in the snow... Sublime.
We didn't reach the summit we were aiming for because the ascent in the snow proved to be more challenging than expected but no matter, the 360° view from the main ridge was more than enough....
That day, as I walked with my feet stuck in the snow, I realized once again how much certain habits have an invisible but very present power on our daily decisions and state of mind. It's silly, but I always thought it would be impossible for me to hike in the snow... First, because I have a breath at the limit of asthma and every hike a little steep forces me to face my physical limits (and sometimes it's hard for my mind). Secondly because when I went on skiing holidays it was to ski.... It never occurred to me to go up a mountain with my feet in the snow.... And yet.... After the "Mountain Bike" this summer, it is the hiking in the snow that I remove this time from my stupid black list of activities =)
Well, you saw me running down the slopes of Urupukapuka Island lying on my back on my pictures of New Zealand so if I tell you that I took a wicked pleasure to go down sitting on my butt, despite the snow getting through my leggings, it won't surprise you... The return of the big child Coco, running with a light heart as if nothing matters anymore. FINALLY. (yes, I was getting impatient too) In fact, I'm seriously considering buying a hiking sled, or inventing it, just for the pleasure of climbing peaks and then sliding them down !
- HOLANDSMÆLEN -
430 m de dénivelé
A little later, back to Haukland Beach with this time a hike on the summit located on the other side: Holandsmælen.
An easy level hike, a little steep at the end (yes it is often the case), but a surprise summit with a new 360 degree view of the islands, the sea, the beach and the mountains. Just another "wow" effect specific to Lofoten !
At the same time, I was able to tick the "Sea Eagle" box on my bucket list since we had the chance to observe one turning just above our heads... Impressive...
- REINEBRINGEN -
1566 marches - 420 m de dénivelé
1566 steps later... here we are at the top of one of the most famous views of Lofoten : Reine... The ascent is steep and difficult, the ridge steep and unstable in places. But the view... once again, is worth all the effort in the world! (including the one to deal with the crowd if you come in summer)
The government had to bring in Sherpas to make the rise a little more secure. These stone stairs will undoubtedly make you rediscover the existence of certain muscles in your calves!
- TJELDBERGTIND -
360 m de dénivelé
Last exploration with the girls, Tjeldbergtind, a short hike, near Svolvaer. Supposed to be of easy level, it is a bit like a Sunday walk for the Norwegians. On the other hand, for me, it still requires a little effort because the slope is quite steep! But the view... as always with lofoten... you have understood, I spare you the repetitive blah-blah...
On the way back, I finally had the chance to discover the city of Henningsvær and what's more, under a golden light! Like what, sometimes it's really worth waiting !
LOFOTEN
Living on the Lofoten Islands off-season is a bit like living in self-sufficiency on an island in the middle of the ocean. Tourists have deserted, the locals are fleeing the "black winter" so the number of buses, boats and ferries is reduced to one or two a day from the airports and access is made very difficult... Landscapes change very quickly and who says he lives on an island says he lives to the rhythm of the seasons and the weather.
But what makes these landscapes so charming in the off-season is the privilege of having them all to yourself.
To feel almost "alone in the world" but to be alone with others. Because living on the Lofoten in autumn and winter is also a bit like being part of a small community of privileged and resistant who fully enjoy every moment....
My first steps here were in red landscapes in the middle of autumn. My last ones will certainly be under the snow since we were watching the first snowflakes fall just a few days ago. The first day we got snow I was so excited that I couldn't contain all of it. After motivating the team, we left for a little road trip in the snow with my adventure friends Terhi and Jolanda. ( and Mike who joined us) Sea, mountain, beach, snow... everything in one place, it was crazy!
I must admit, however, that I was very excited at the idea of going to see the sand and snow coexist in these paradisiacal landscapes. So when Terhi offered to take me there, I was like a child on Christmas morning. I literally jumped all over the hostel just thinking of going for a ride in the snow. (those who know me will be able to imagine it very well). And yes, that's what I did, once I arrived... Drawing angel on the floor ! 0:)
NEW ADVENTURES SOON
I promised myself on this blog that the day I would leave Norway, I will get better. This may not have been the case at the end of September when I left Voss, but this departure from Lofoten will definitely have a lighter feeling.
I must admit that I was sometimes afraid this year of never regain the sense of inner freedom that I had in New Zealand. I was very afraid that the Coralie I had come to know and love there had been nothing but an illusion... I don't know if there's anything magical about this place, if it's the context of the last few weeks, or if I've just started another stage of this mourning period, but what's for sure is that this month in Lofoten has brought me back to life. I found myself smiling again at life and enjoying every moment. I spent time with myself, relearning to love and accept myself as I am and this will have triggered many moments of lightness and renewed happiness. Maybe the right click for me.
I've had a lot of ideas in my head for several months (even a year in fact...) but I haven't done much with them. I have had a lot of difficulty getting involved in my own projects since my hasty return from New Zealand (and since my first departure in fact). The post-travel depression is very real and it will not have been reduced with the loss of my Dad. But since September, I decided to roll the dice again and play them for myself this time.
One of my last conversations with him last November was about his work fatigue. He loved his job but he was exhausted from doing it. He replied to me he was too old and too close to retirement to change now. I was trying to convince him to do it, because if he had a few years left to work, he might as well do it without dragging his feet. And then I left, I took my life back and for the last 9 months I've been dragging my feet...
I chose to do jobs that attracted me but that remained between the lines of my CV. My father spent his life being curious about everything but never really gave himself the chance to go a little further with these professional ideas. I am free to pay tribute to him by investing my time in projects and training that will take me to where he didn't dare go...
"Life isn't about changing yourself. Life is about creating Yourself." Georges Bernard Shaw
If this is true, well, I decided to dedicate the next months to create this new me. I have always dreamed of spending more time in the outdoors, but also of trying something different and into a personal development... On November 17, I will embark on a 200-hour training Yoga course, which will allow me to teach afterwards if I wish. At the end of January, I will be on the way to Patagonia for a second three-month training course, this time to become a hiking and climbing guide... This should make me completely independent in my explorations !
Even if these two courses may seem a little distant, what's attracting me, is the notion of being a guide. My desire, my ability to guide myself, but also, one day, why not, to take others with me on a journey. Yoga is in my opinion a tool for returning to oneself, the teachers are the guides for an inner, spiritual journey. Climbing and hiking are tools to physically reach peaks that often reflect the inner peaks to climb.... Combining the two could lead me to projects much bigger than those I imagine today... And with Canada opening the doors behind all of these projects, I might as well say that I can dream things big for now! It's bubbling with ideas and it makes me smile to feel so enthusiastic about these projects... Even if I don't know the future, I know I can't wait to tell you about it !
I am writing to you very quickly this article "end of the trip to Lofoten and review of Norway"!
Love.
Co.
Comentarios